縫紉機(jī)線跡的種類
縫紉機(jī)線跡的分類形式很多,1979年,國際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化組織對(duì)線跡的種類,編號(hào)進(jìn)行了規(guī)定,將標(biāo)準(zhǔn)線跡分為6大類:
100類-鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡
200類-仿手工線跡
300類-瑣式線跡
400類-多線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡
500類-包縫線跡
600類-覆蓋線跡
100類中最常用的是101和103兩種。101和103都是是單線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,103常用于暗線挑縫。
300中最常用的是301,304,308和320。其中301稱單針平縫線跡,又是最最常用的線跡,304兩點(diǎn)人字線跡,308三點(diǎn)人字線跡,比301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯(cuò)和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網(wǎng)底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側(cè)縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網(wǎng)狀結(jié)構(gòu),主要用于車縫橡筋到內(nèi)褲內(nèi)衣上。
500類中最常用的有504,505,512,514。504和505都是三線包縫線跡。504廣泛用于制衣業(yè)的鎖邊工序,505主要針對(duì)中厚料。512和514是四線包縫又稱安全線跡。都由兩條針線兩條鉤線組成,只是鉤線與針線的交圈方式上兩陣稍有不同。
600類中最常用的是602,605,607三種。602又稱二針網(wǎng)面線跡,主要用于針織捏儀,運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝等。605又稱三針網(wǎng)面線跡。主要用語衣服上縫橡津,切滾條和拼接縫的縫合等工序。607是四針網(wǎng)面線跡,有四條針線知識(shí)比605加了一條陣線其他類似。綜上所述,600類主要用于針織服裝的滾邊,滾領(lǐng),折邊,拼接縫和裝飾花邊等工序,其實(shí)也就是繃縫啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結(jié),倒回針,加固縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆蓋線跡,繃縫線跡
interlock stitch聯(lián)鎖線跡,多線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡
single thread chain stitch單線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,單線鏈狀線,單線鎖鏈底針步,(101線跡),(用于假縫,如袋口)
103線跡-blind stitch暗縫,暗繰針縫,挑腳,
301線跡-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線跡,平縫線跡,普通線跡,平車針步,(最常見的線跡)
304線跡-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖式線跡,鋸齒形鎖式線跡,Z形鎖式線跡,之字形平車針步,人字形平車針步,(底面線都是鎖式線跡)
401線跡-single needle chain stitch單針鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,單針鏈狀針步,單針鎖鏈底針步
404線跡-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,鋸齒形鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,Z形鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡,人字鎖鏈底針步,(面線是鎖式線跡,底線是鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡)
406線跡-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙針底部覆蓋線跡,雙針網(wǎng)底針步,(用于腰帶袢,針織服裝的袖口、下擺等)
407線跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針底部繃縫線跡,三針網(wǎng)底針步
408線跡-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針鏈?zhǔn)奖砻娓采w線跡,雙針網(wǎng)面鎖鏈底針步
503線跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙線拷邊,雙線包邊,雙線钑骨
504線跡-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線跡,拷邊線跡,鎖邊線跡,三線拷邊,三線包邊,三線钑骨,(最常見的拷邊線跡)
512線跡-mock safety stitch假線跡,模擬線跡,(用于彈性面料接縫)
514線跡-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針?biāo)木€拷邊,雙針?biāo)木€包邊,雙針?biāo)木€钑骨,(用于彈性面料接縫)
515線跡(401 503)-4 threads safety stitch四線安全線跡,四線安全針步
516線跡(401 504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五線拷邊,五線鎖邊,安全線跡,五線包邊安全線跡,五線钑骨
602線跡-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙針?biāo)木€繃縫線跡
605線跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五線繃縫線跡
606線跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線平式繃縫線跡
607線跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六線平式繃縫線跡,pearl stitch珠式線跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識(shí)
平縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,F(xiàn)LAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,F(xiàn)LAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lián)式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網(wǎng)眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線跡,十字線跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補(bǔ)線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點(diǎn)劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對(duì)稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復(fù)合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復(fù)式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結(jié)線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環(huán)針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,F(xiàn)LAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,F(xiàn)LAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lián)式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網(wǎng)眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線跡,十字線跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補(bǔ)線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點(diǎn)劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對(duì)稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復(fù)合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復(fù)式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結(jié)線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環(huán)針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結(jié)構(gòu)縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續(xù)縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內(nèi)縫------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫------THICK SEAM
中縫------CENTRE SEAM
側(cè)縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉(zhuǎn)角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼合縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫-----FINISHING SEAM,F(xiàn)ASHION SEAM
明縫,面縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈?zhǔn)骄€縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環(huán)縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫------HANGING SEAM
保險(xiǎn)縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固縫-----TACKING SEAM,F(xiàn)ASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領(lǐng)縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對(duì)折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補(bǔ)縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM